Brazil’s Massive Fragrance Market

Glass Perfume Bottles--Swedish art. Source: pixels.com

Glass Perfume Bottles–Swedish art. Source: pixels.com

Brazil‘s roaring fragrance market is the largest in the world, and the country has an incredibly strong perfume culture. I thought it would be interesting to take a closer look at the figures, what sells, who buys, and the best-selling fragrances for both men and women.

As always, I would like to stress that I have no background in finance, economics, marketing, or anything remotely mathematical in nature. I do not claim to be an expert on any of those things, there are limits to how comprehensive I can be in a single article, and I write about what interests me, as well as what I have access to. If you are more interested in another country, you can always check my prior pieces on the U.S. and international fragrance markets, the late 2013 U.S. industry figures, the global fragrance market, and the celebrity perfume industry. Finally, please note that all of my articles focus on the commercial fragrance markets, not the niche one.

THE OVERALL ECONOMIC FIGURES:

Photo: Luxuryactivist.com

Photo: Luxuryactivist.com

Brazil is a country that adores fragrance and, as a result, it is the largest perfume market in the world. Every research group I’ve seen makes that last point, often in a tone of great admiration. To quote a Cosmetics Design article from March 2014:

By 2013 Brazil was already the most valuable fragrances market in the world, worth more than US$6 billion, built on the back of high per capita consumption as Brazilians use, on average, three times more fragrances by volume than consumers in the U.S., the next most valuable market.

It is such a valuable market than five of the major fragrance houses in the country (being Givaudan, IFF, Firmenich, Symrise and Takasago) invested around R$160 million in Brazil in recent years, making Sao Paolo one of the most important cities in the world in terms of development of fragrances, behind only New York and Paris.

IFFs rising stock prices. Source: FoxBusinessnews.com

IFFs rising stock prices. Source: FoxBusinessnews.com

The aromachemical giants’ investment has paid off. If you read my prior pieces on U.S. and global sales, you will see that each company points to Brazil as one reason for their strong sales in the emerging markets. In a few cases, those emerging market figures have helped boost the company’s overall bottom line quite substantially.

The Luxury Activist website has compiled some overall figures for the beauty industry in Brazil, based on reports from Euromonitor and a wide variety of other sources:

Top Beauty segments in Brazil in 2012 by sales

  • Hair care products: 4 billion US$
  • Alcoholic Fragrances: 2.7 Billion US$
  • Men’s Shaving products: 2 Billion US$
  • Deodorants: 1.7 billion US$
  • Bath products: 1.7 billion US$
  • Children beauty products: 0.6 Billion US$

Alcoholic Fragrances and deodorants have been growing by 15% every year on the past 5 years.

source: girlandboything.com

source: girlandboything.com

According to a recent Premium Beauty News article, Brazil’s fragrance industry is so profitable that it is actually one of the driving forces for the growth of the global market as a whole:

Brazil was among the fastest growing markets in the last five years, with CAGR [Compound Annual Growth Rate] of 13.6% in local currency terms. While growth will slow over the next five years, Brazil will retain leadership of the global fragrance market, forecast for sales of $5.1 billion in 2017.

For Brazilians, wearing fragrance has become a daily ritual, with 90% owning and 84% wearing it regularly. [Emphasis in the original.]

WHAT SELLS & WHO BUYS IT:

The Cosmetics Design report talks about who is buying perfume and the reasons why. It mentions how men play a key role in terms of perfume sales, “consuming 48.7% of fragrances by volume.” Furthermore, even the poor buy a lot of perfume, almost as much as the very richest households in terms of overall quantity. What drives all this? The article quotes a finding by the Canadean research firm that consumers seek “‘to affirm particular visions of femininity or masculinity, including the use fragrances [sic] to deliberately break gender stereotypes[.]'” However, consumers are also motivated by a desire to try novel, new scents and/or to pamper themselves.

Natura fragrances. Source: their website.

Natura fragrances. Source: their website.

Most of these scents are not expensive ones. According to Euromonitor, 90% of fragrances purchased by the Brazilians are mass-market creationsAs a whole, two national brands control 60% of the market share, Natura and O Boticario. Remember the aromachemical companies and the R$160 million that they’ve spent on expansion? Well, according to the Euromonitor, they’re making fragrances for the Brazilian national companies, in addition to creating some for international brands.

I found a 2010 Euromonitor PDF report which gives a little more information on perfume sales and, in particular, best-selling brands:

Megan Fox ad for Avons Instinct. Source: trendhunter.com

Megan Fox ad for Avon’s Instinct. Source: trendhunter.com

In common with many other categories in Brazilian beauty and personal care, fragrance sales are typified by a very low presence of premium brands. In Brazil, the premium segment accounts for a mere 6% of the total fragrances market, and the best-selling brands are primarily those from mass-priced direct sellers such as Avon and Oriflame. This is in stark contrast to most other countries with a value market of equal size to Brazil: in the USA, for example, premium brands accounted for 79% in 2008. The difference stems again from the high taxes on luxury goods in Brazil, and also the comparatively far lower disposable incomes. [Emphasis added by me.]

One of Natura's boutiques in Brazil. Source: naturabrasil.fr

One of Natura’s boutiques in Brazil. Source: naturabrasil.fr

While most perfume sales in Brazil center on mass-market local creations, the more recent Euromonitor report indicates that there is a possibility for consumers to start buying international and more expensive fragrances from the premium sector. Generally speaking, and based on what I have seen when the term is used for American sales, the “premium” sector seems to center on fragrances in the US $60-$80 range, while luxury appears to be defined as those priced at a little over $100. However, that is merely my personal observation, and is limited to U.S. pricing.

Brazilian pricing is significantly more inflated because the country imposes a whopping tariff on imported goods. The tax is well over 40%, so many consumers go abroad to purchase their high-end perfume. “In fact, the average price for premium fragrances in Brazil is more than double that of the US, at over US$100 per 50ml.” So, when the Euromonitor is talking about Brazilians possibly move away from mainstream, local scents into more expensive perfumery, there is a definite obstacle in their path.

Source: blog.jellyweb.com.br

Source: blog.jellyweb.com.br

On the other hand, Sephora has recently arrived in Brazil, and is sure to have an impact on sales of “premium” fragrances. The Euromonitor states:

While there are undoubtedly difficult challenges for premium fragrance brands to overcome in order to get a strong foothold in Brazil’s fragrance loving-market, Sephora’s presence is sure to shake up the field. As the use of fragrances is deeply embedded in the country, Brazil is forecast to not only have the highest volume per capita in 2016, but also to be the third highest spending country in per capita terms, behind only the Netherlands and Switzerland[Emphasis added by me.]

PREMIUM FRAGRANCE BEST-SELLERS: THE TOP 30 FOR MEN & WOMEN:

I find all these numbers and figures useful, but they don’t really give me a good sense or feel of what it is like for the average perfume lover in Brazil. I don’t know Portuguese, so I’m hindered in trying to get a more micro understanding of the culture, but I found it interesting to browse the perfume section of Sephora Brasil‘s website. There, they have the horrifying Nicki Minaj perfume bottle, along with Joop!Taylor Swift‘s Wonderstruck rollerball, and Azzaro men’s fragrances. Sephora also seems to have an exclusive for Guerlain (La Petite Robe Noire seems to be successful, as it is everywhere) and Armani creations.

What gave me a slightly better sense of what is going on was the Luxury Activist‘s list of best-selling fragrances. I assume he is talking solely about international “premium” perfumes, since the other reports listed above state that 90% of fragrances purchased by the Brazilians are mass-market creations and only 6% are “premium” brands. So, do keep that in mind when you read the list.

J'Adore

According to the site, Brazil’s Top 30 best-selling women’s (premium) fragrances in 2012 are:

  1. J’Adore – Christian Dior with 4.9% of market shares
  2. 212 VIP – Carolina Herrera
  3. Flower by Kenzo – Kenzo
  4. CH – Carolina Herrera
  5. 212 Carolina Herrera
  6. Hypnôse – Lancôme
  7. 212 Sexy – Carolina Herrera
  8. Lady Million – Paco Rabanne
  9. Ange ou Demon – Givenchy
  10. Ck One – Calvin Klein
  11. Dolce & Gabbana – Dolce & Gabbana
  12. Ck Be – Calvin Klein
  13. L’Eau d’Issey – Isssey Myake
  14. Tommy Girl – Tommy Hilfiger
  15. Gabriela Sabatini – Gabriela Sabatini
  16. Amor Amor – Cacharel
  17. Black XS for her – Paco Rabanne
  18. Very Irresistible -Givenchy
  19. Nina – Nina Ricci
  20. Armani Code for women – Giorgio Armani
  21. Dior Addict 2 – Christian Dior
  22. Angel – Thierry Mugler
  23. Diesel Fuel for Life for Her – Diesel
  24. Anais Anais – Cacharel
  25. Kenzo Amour -Kenzo
  26. Femme – Montblanc
  27. Eternity – Calvin Klein
  28. Amarige – Givenchy
  29. Lolita Lempicka – Lolita Lempicka
  30. Organza – Givenchy
Source: boots.com

Source: boots.com

In analysing the top 30 of best selling feminine fragrances, here is what we can say from a olfactory taste point of view. 40% of these fragrances are floral fragrances. J’Adore by Dior, Very Irresistible or Anais Anais are the floral spectrum of brazilian women taste for florals. Anaïs Anaïs has been in the top selling fragrances for decades in Brazil, along with Chanel N.5 and the modern florals like J’Adore and Very Irresistible, have taken the lead.

Nevertheless, we can see that Orientals and modern orientals represent now 32% of best selling fragrances, which is new. In deed, Fragrances like Hypnôse by Lancôme, Black XS for Her and even Angel by Thierry Mugler, have found their place in a market getting more and more mature and sophisticated.  […][¶]

At last, we can see that brands like Carolina Herrera, Paco Rabanne and Givenchy have several fragrances in the top 30. These 3 brands invested the brazilian market for a very long time and they are very powerful there. [Emphasis added by me.]

Enrique Iglesias for Azzaro Pour Homme Photo: Steven Klein. Source: fashionwindows.net

Enrique Iglesias for Azzaro Pour Homme Photo: Steven Klein. Source: fashionwindows.net

For the men, the Luxury Activist has this top 30 list for 2012:

  1. Azzaro pour homme – Azzaro
  2. Ferrari Black – Ferrari Profumi
  3. One Million – Paco Rabanne
  4. 212 Men NYC – Carolina Herrera
  5. Joop! Homme – Joop
  6. 212 VIP – Carolina Herrera
  7. Kouros – Yves Saint Laurent
  8. Polo – Ralph Lauren
  9. Hugo – Hugo Boss
  10. Polo Blue – Ralph Lauren
  11. CH Men – Carolina Herrera
  12. 212 Sexy Men – Carolina Herrera
  13. The One for men – Dolce & Gabbana
  14. Black XS – Paco Rabanne
  15. Acqua di Gio pour homme – Giorgio Armani
  16. Montblanc – Montblanc
  17. Polo Black – Ralph Lauren
  18. L’Eau d’Issey pour homme – Issey Miyake
  19. Fahrenheit – Christian Dior
  20. Lacoste Essential – Lacoste
  21. Armani Code – Giorgio Armani
  22. Tommy – Tommy Hilfiger
  23. Le Mâle – Jean Paul Gaultier
  24. Dolce & Gabbana pour homme – Dolce & Gabbana
  25. Kenzo pour homme – Kenzo
  26. Ck One – Calvin Klein
  27. Diesel Fuel for Life for him – Diesel
  28. Euphoria Men Intense – Calvin Klein
  29. Eternity for men – Calvin Klein
  30. Play – Givenchy

The masculine market is more traditional with best sellers like Azzaro, Polo, Kouros, Fahrenheit or even Hugo. All fragrances with more than 20 years old. Carolina Herrera, Paco Rabanne and Calvin Klein have also a strong dominance. 3 main olfactory structures share the market. Little advantage with Aromatic structures leading the market by 42%, followed by Woody fragrances by 31% and Orientals for 27%.

One Million ad. Source: toptenplus.com/

One Million ad. Source: toptenplus.com/

The arrival of One Million by Paco Rabanne at the 3rd place represents a new entry, which is less aromatic and more oriental despite of some woody and yet fresh-aromatic start.

The Luxury Activist has the most detailed, lengthy list of anything I’ve seen thus far, but the Perfume Shrine has something rather similar for the female best-sellers, though not for the men. According to the Perfume Shrine (which is using NPD information and the testimony of two individuals, including Renata Acshcar who runs Brazil’s Museum of Perfume), the top 3 best-sellers for men in 2012 were:

Source: tienda.murlana.es

Source: tienda.murlana.es

  1. Paco Rabanne pour Homme
  2. Polo by Ralph Lauren
  3. 212 Men (Carolina Herrera)

What I found more interesting there was the discussion in the comments. Specifically, the concrete example from one Brazilian, “Henrique/Rick,” about just how much more expensive the “prestige” fragrances can be in Brazil:

About the taxes, to have an idea of how much more we pay, a normal Carolina Herrera Scent in the 100ml bottle can easily cost the price of a Chanel Exclusif in USA (and a Chanel Exclusif in the 200ml bottle cost something around 430-440 dollars).

It’s obviously an astronomical difference from the prices of the same products in America. As Henrique/Rick stated in his comment, without that huge tariff, Brazilians would undoubtedly spend even more than they already do.

 ALL IN ALL:

Brazil’s passion for perfumery across every socio-economic strata leaves many other countries in the dust. The only thing stopping it from having even more explosive numbers is their taxes. Without that, Brazil would probably be the answer to niche perfume houses world-wide, as would several other Latin American countries in similar situations. (Mexico is another strong market for commercial fragrances and for scented products as a whole. Argentina also has a difficult tariff problem.)

Companies who want to get ahead should — and undoubtedly will — follow the path of the aromachemical giants and invest more heavily in Brazil.

14 thoughts on “Brazil’s Massive Fragrance Market

  1. Very interesting. I know Brasil’s economy is enormous, but I never really pegged them as huge perfume consumers (until I read one of your other posts on the international market, and it was referenced either there or in the comments – I can’t recall). Although, reflecting now it actually does make sense – as a country, they are very image conscious and, if memory serves, probably among the top three or five countries in terms of cosmetic surgery procedures per person. I suppose the reason why I never pegged them as huge consumers of cosmetics is due to the economic disparity there between rich and poor (and the sheer number of poor people), but I guess that’s the case in a lot of places. I did know about the tariff issue – my friend is Brasilian and says whenever family or friends are visiting the US, they go on enormous shopping sprees because the cost is simply so much less here. One would think it might deter from consumption of luxury goods, but apparently not!

    • When I think of Brazil, I don’t think of perfume, either. Then, again, I don’t associate any country with it other than France, undoubtedly due to my background. What surprised me with regard to Brasil is that rich and poor alike buy fragrance, and that there really isn’t a socio-economic or class divide when it comes to passion for the product. That part I found truly surprising, as well as the fact that just two companies have a staggering 60% share of the 90% domestic market. That is some serious control by Natura and the other one. Good heavens.

  2. Pingback: China & Japan's Fragrance Markets & Culture - Kafkaesque

  3. I’m surprised and yet not. As Kevin mentioned below, they are huge into cosmetic surgery. And the direct sales perfume numbers – Brazil is a huge fan of direct sales companies, period. Of all kinds. I have an aquaintance from high school who was a Brazilian exchange student, and I see things constantly in her Facebook feed regarding purchases from direct sales companies, and I believe she herself is a consultant for one, always going in trips for her huge sales. And on the other hand, Brazil just normally doesn’t immediately come to mind when you think of something like this. Fascinating read, though. 🙂

    • I had no idea that direct sales companies were such a big deal, especially across all areas or product types. How fascinating. Thank you for the insight, Devon! 🙂

  4. Wow. Paco Rabanne is number 1? Those are my kind of people. I used to love that stuff back in high school. I would spray a tissue with it from the tester at the mall and sniff it for days. I’d never have guessed it would be so popular in Brazil of all places.

    • This whole comment made me laugh from start to finish. I especially loved, “Wow… those are my kind of people.” LOL.

      Methinks you should start considering a trip to Brazil. 😉

  5. These numbers are fascinating! I was struck by the $0.6B (!) in children beauty products – what’s up with THAT??? Could it be the TEEN market because when I think of children, I think 12 or below.

    I have colleagues in Brazil with whom I interact on a regular basis and regular will turn to very frequent the next 12 months since we are all marching to really tight deadlines. Maybe I’ll wheedle a business trip out of it to do first hand research 🙂

    • I think you must be right about how they are defining the ages because it makes no sense otherwise. Like you, I think of children as 12 or below, so what on earth could they be buying?? Even if “beauty” is classified really broadly, I can think only of sunscreen and that surely would not account for such massive numbers, even in a place like Brazil. So, yes, they probably are classifying “children” as people below 18, such that teens and makeup purchases would qualify.

      The numbers are massive, though, aren’t they? I think we need to send you to Brasil to investigate further just what exactly those “children” are buying…. 🙂

  6. Interesting post, dear Kafka!
    I remember a few salesladies here in Buenos Aires mentioning that their Brazilian customers (gross generalisation, I know) are mad about the Carolina Herrera fragrances.
    That list of best selling fragrances seem to reflect this quite well.

    xoxo

    Caro

    • Carolina Herrera seems to be a great example of a company doing phenomenally well when they target a specific area for decades and that country is rather sealed against the majority of outside competitors/products (due to the tariffs). I wouldn’t be surprised if Brazil is responsible all by itself for a good portion of Carolina Herrera’s profit figures, given that 4 of her creations are such massive best-sellers there.

  7. I’m Brazilian and it’s a nice overview of the market we have here. Brazilians women do indeed like florals, slighty fruity fragrances, be it national or international fragrances, and men do really use lots of woody and aromatic fragrances, traditionally. Aside from the comment this person (Henrique) made in Perfume Shrine about the price of an C. Herrera. we really suffer with absurd taxations on any imported “luxury item”. A C. Herrera of 100ml can cost about 400 BRL, which is grossily 200 USD, not 400 dollars as implied. It’s huge disparity, however; can you imagine we are paying more than 100 dollars in such fragrance? We do however pay 68% in taxes to have a imported brand fragrance here, which makes any celebrity fragrances sound (or smell) like the most precious EdP in the world.
    Carolina Herrera and Paco Rabanne make great success here probably because, as said in the post, they invested a lot and for many years. It was probably an strategy of Puig, owner of the licenses of the two brands. Both brands have slightly cheaper fragrances than, let’s say, Dior and other LVMH fragrances.
    So, maybe it’s not about tastes but about advertising, price and availability.
    At least these are my thoughts on the matter. 🙂

    • Very interesting. Thank you. I greatly appreciate your insight and perspective. 🙂

  8. Pingback: Frederic Malle, Estee Lauder & Perfume Industry Changes - Kafkaesque

Comments are closed.